Does the price of leather bondage gear prevent you from owning some pieces you might like? If you're willing to invest a little time, you can learn to make many items for yourself. Not only will you save money, you can customize your leather to your needs. Adding extra rings, hasps, buckles, or studs is a simple matter of planning ahead and picking up a little extra hardware.

In this article, I'll show you how to make a simple set of locking bondage cuffs suitable for wrists, ankles, or even the neck as a collar. The whole project will take about one or two hours, and the equipment and supplies should cost less than buying a set of cuffs. Once you've completed them, you'll have what you need to make other items for far less than you'd pay commercially.

What You'll Need

I use a plastic mallet instead of the wooden variety because it lasts longer, but it's also more expensive. Again, don't try to cut corners by using a hammer; you'll be pounding metal with metal, and you can quickly ruin your punch.

A "hasp staple" is the part of a hasp through which the padlock threads. I haven't found a ready source of the staples by themselves, so I usually just buy an entire hasp package -- they're not terribly expensive -- and toss the parts I don't need. The particular hasp listed is a nice brass tone; they are also available in a silver color.

Cut the Strap

If one end of the leather strap isn't square, cut off enough to have a clean, square end. Wrap the strap around the wrist or ankle of the cuff's intended "recipient." (If you'll be lining the cuff, wrap a single layer of lining around the wrist or ankle first, then wrap the leather strap around the lining.) Adjust for the desired looseness or snugness, then make a tick mark on the edge of the strap where it overlaps itself. Measure past this mark by the width of the hasp staple plus 1/4" and make another tick mark. Cut the strap off square at this second tick mark.

Mark for Punching

Lightly mark a line from the center of the strap at the tick mark to the end you just cut. Place the hasp staple squarely over this line, 1/8" in from the end of the strap. Mark a dot at the center of each hole. At the other end of the strap, measure in from the end one half the width of the hasp staple plus 1/8", and lightly draw a line across the strap. Place a tick mark at the center of this line, then one 3/8" on either side of the center, for a total of three marks.

Punch the Strap

Punch a hole at each of the dots you first marked. At the other end, punch a hole centered on each of the outer two tick marks, then use a craft knife and ruler to cut out the rectangle between these holes, making a slot. (Tip: Here is where spending a little extra can make for a much faster and neater job. A tool called a "slot punch" or an "oblong punch" can make this slot in one step. If you think you'll be making more than a few locking items or buckling straps, this is a good investment.)

Round the Edges (Optional)

Using an edge beveler, trim the corners off of all the outer edges. Carefully wet one edge at a time, taking care not to wet the front of the leather. Rub each edge with the edge slicker until a smooth, rounded edge results. Wait for the leather to dry before proceeding to the next step.

Dye the Leather (Optional)

Using a wool dauber, apply dye evenly across both sides and all edges of the leather. Be sure to coat the inside of the slot; you do not need to coat the inside of the holes. (If you are lining the cuff, you need dye only the outer 1/4" or so of the back side. To reduce curling on dry leather, however, dye the back side fully.) Wait for the dye to dry, then apply a second coat to the front and edges. Wait until the leather is is completely dry before proceeding to the next step.

Wax the Leather (Optional)

Apply wax to the front of the leather. Wait for the wax to lose its sheen, then buff with a soft, lint-free cloth until a shine comes up.

Mount the Hasp Staple

Push a rivet bottom through one of the holes from the back of the leather. The proper length rivet should extend slightly past the surface of the leather; shorter rivets will have less strength. Place the hasp staple over the two holes. Push a rivet top through a hole in the staple and onto the rivet bottom. Place the rivet bottom on a hard surface (an anvil is ideal). Center the rivet setter on the rivet top, and hit it several times with a mallet until the rivet is firmly seated. Repeat with another rivet through the other hole.

Line the Cuff (Optional)

Cut a strip of lining material 1/4" narrower than the leather of the cuff. Wrap the cuff into a cylinder as if it were being used. Fit the lining inside and mark the desired length.

For thin linings such as suede, make the length 1/4" shorter than the length of the wrapped leather. Using a flexible, waterproof adhesive, glue the lining in place with a 1/8" border around the edges. Once the glue has set, use a craft knife or slot punch to cut out the slot.

For thick linings such as fleece, the length should be 1/8" from the hasp staple end, to just short of where the leather overlaps the other end. Glue the lining in place with a 1/8" border around three edges, leaving the slot end uncovered.

You're Done!

That's all there is to creating a simple but nicely made locking cuff or collar. Quite a few variations are possible, some of which are pictured below.

The flat strip in the foreground is a suede-lined cuff made just as I've described in this feature. The red cuff above it is fleece-lined, decorated with hearts, and treated to give the leather an exaggerated "grainy" texture. The locked cuff to the left was made adjustable by cutting multiple slots at 3/4" inch intervals.

The strap to the right is actually a simple buckling collar. It includes a D-ring and "locks" with a key post. The same techniques and tools are used to make this and other buckling straps; the only additional hardware you'll need is the buckle and a key post.

Once you realize you can easily make simple cuffs like these, you'll probably want to try more challenging projects. The large black "posture collar" to the upper left is fleece-lined and adjustable; it includes three D-rings and places for two padlocks. Posture collars are very severe, but by making one yourself you can size it to the wearer perfectly, eliminating the discomfort which comes with a poor fit.

Finally, the studded, suede-lined, two-tone collar to the upper right is a "formal" collar that I made as a present for my wife, Renee. This was my first experience with both studding and multiple colors, and both Renee and I were very happy with the results.

Let me know if you'd like to see future articles on how to make other leather items. And, in the meantime, give leather-working a try... you might be surprised at how easy it is. I know I was!

Addendum: In the years since writing this column, things have changed. Tandy Leather closed most of their retail stores; for a lot of people, what used to be a simple drive to the store to pick up supplies has turned into a major challenge. You can still order from Tandy's Web site (linked in the article), but you might want to see if you can find an equivalent local source. Well-stocked craft shops often carry many of the parts you'll need, like rivets and D-rings.

I also eventually discovered a nicer-looking hasp staple than the Stanley model mentioned in the article. It uses a round curved bar rather than folded metal, and it has four holes in the base instead of two. I find them at the local Sears, but they're probably available in well-stocked hardware stores, too. Your cuffs will look more professional if you use these hasps, but you'll have to work out the different measurements and hole spacings needed.